TARTE TATIN

TARTE TATIN: an upside down apple pie – but why?

Rumour has it that French Tatin sisters, Stéphanie and Caroline had a small crisis in the kitchen….The result: a traditional apple tart served upside-down. Whatever the truth, this ranks among one of my favourite desserts – the pastry on top stays golden and crispy, while the apples caramelise below.

We christened my father’s Emile Henry tatin set the last time I was in Provence. This one ceramic dish does everything: first make the caramel directly on the stove top using butter and sugar, add the apple slices, cover with pastry and bake until golden brown. When done, the tarte tatin turns out easily onto the matching plate.

Caramel: Getting the caramel recipe to work can take a little practice, click on the link ‘Tarte Tatin‘ below for more on this and the tarte tatin recipe:

ERIKA ALLISTON: Tarte Tatin Recipe

Pastry:

• 170g white flour
• 80g unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
• 3 tablespoons white sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 egg, beaten

1. Combine four, salt & sugar
2. Add butter, mix with fingers until looks like bread crumbs
3. Add egg and mix till a smooth ball forms
4. Chill for 30 minutes

Caramel:

• 170g white sugar
• 50g unsalted butter

Filling:

• 6 small cooking apples (ie Russets), peeled & cut into 6es
• 30g white sugar
• 30g unsalted butter

1. On the hob/stove top, melt 170g white sugar
2. When the sugar is JUST melted and a light golden colour, remove from the heat – do this earlier than later as the hot pan will continue to cook the sugar when off the heat!**
3. Add 50g butter, mix till forms a smooth caramel. There is always a little butter that won’t fully mix in.
4. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/350°F
5. Place the apple pieces evenly around the dish.
6. Sprinkle with 30g sugar + place small cubes of butter around the apples
7. Cover with pastry, tuck in the corners
8. Bake for 40 minutes
9. Remove and LET SIT for 10 minutes, before turning out onto a plate

**As we are among friends I will tell you that my 1st attempt at making the caramel was a disaster… I burned the sugar, not removing it from the heat in time. My 2nd attempt was slightly better, I tried adding water to melt the sugar, but it just evaporated. They say 3 times a charm and it was – just watch the heat and remove the golden sugar a few minutes before you think it’s done!

Apple Crumble

Apple Crumble

I think certain deserts are underestimated; an easy recipe can be just as delicious as a complicated one. In fact chefs nowadays seem to be signing the praises of just such an idea.

I have always loved apple crumble, all the wonderful taste of apple pie, without fiddling around with rolled-out pastry. The crumble for this recipe actually comes from Ottolenghi’s carrot muffins. I think it is the addition of black sesame seeds and honey that makes this buttery crumble so fabulous. Your taste buds will thank you!

You can adapt this recipe using white sesame seeds if you don’t have black ones, pears instead of apples and cook the crumble for 10 minutes longer at 150°C if you prefer a softer fruit texture.

See link ‘apple crumble’ below for recipe:

APPLE CRUMBLE – ERIKA ALLISTON –  Sweet Pea Blog

Cooking apples

The crumble

• 50g unsalted butter
• 75g white all-purpose flour
• 25g brown sugar
• 50g whole rolled oats
• 20g sunflower seeds
• 1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
• 1 teaspoon warm water
• 1 teaspoon sunflower oil
• 1 tablespoon honey

1. Cut the butter into small cubes, set aside
2. Combine the flour, sugar, oats and seeds.
3. With your fingers, work the butter cubes into the dry ingredients until you have a bread crumb consistency.
4. Combine the water, oil and honey, then add to the crumble, mixing with your fingers till well combined

Apple Crumble

• 450g chopped cooking apples (approx. 3 medium whole apples)

1. Pre-heat the oven to 170°C / 340°F
2. Cut apples into small cubes
3. Butter a small baking dish
4. Add the apples
5. Evenly sprinkle with the crumble
6. Bake for 40-50 minutes. Serve warm

Thomas Keller OREO

TKO – Thomas Keller Oreo Recipe

What makes these cookies so drop dead gorgeous is the sublime duo of salty chocolate cookies sandwiching a perfect white chocolate ganache cream. And for those of you who are less than ecstatic when it comes to white chocolate, not to worry, the taste is so subtle you will find yourself converted.

So it is no wonder that my colleague Claire was, and still is addicted to TKO‘s: Thomas Keller‘s ‘grown-up’ Oreo cookies. This my friends is no small food craving, we are talking about a woman making a bee-line to the Bouchon Bakery once a day, 5 days a week to buy not 1 but 2 of these pancake sized cookies. You are getting the picture here…

As  I apparently have not lived until I’ve tried a TKO, and short of asking Bouchon to FedEx me a care package, I thought I’d make them myself.  This is Thomas Keller’s original recipe from the ‘Essence of Chocolate‘ cookbook.

See link ‘Oreo‘ below for the recipe:

TKO – Thomas Keller’s Oreo Cookie Recipe

Chocolate cookie:

• 210 g (1 1/2 cups + 3 tbls) all-purpose white flour
• 160 g (3/4 cup) white sugar
• 65 g (3/4 cup + 1 tbls) unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 1 1/2 tsp salt (do not reduce, the saltyness makes the cookie!)
• 210 g (15 tbls) unsalted butter (room temperature, cut into small cubes)

Filling:

• 118 mL (1/2 cup) heavy / full fat cream
• 230 g (8 US ounces) white chocolate (finely chopped)

Method:

First prepare the white chocolate filling:

1. Very finely chop white chocolate.
2. Heat cream till just boils, pour over chopped chocolate. Mix with whisk till all chocolate has melted.
3. Set aside for 2 hours at room temperature.*

Next prepare the chocolate cookies:

1. Combine flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda & salt, mix well.
2. Next, with mixer on slow speed, add butter cubes one by one, until a thick even batter forms
3. Per heat oven to 180°C / 350°F
4. Line two cookie sheets with baking / parchment paper, set aside
5. Separate dough into 2 pieces. Roll out between two large piece of baking paper, till approx. 0.25cm (1/8″ inch) thick
6. Place rolled out dough in fridge for 5 minutes, this makes cookie cutting easier.
7. Using a fluted cutter, cut out cookies. Put scraps together & roll out again.
8. Place 1cm (1/2″ inch) apart on cookie sheet
9. Bake for 12-15 minutes, rotating halfway through baking. Remove, let cool on cook sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to cooling rack

Cookie assembly:

• Lightly whip the white chocolate ganache.
• You can used a pastry bag with 1/4″ plain tip. I used a spoon and knife. Place 1 1/2 teaspoons cream in centre of one cookie, top with another cookie to form a sandwich.
• Gently press down till cream comes near edges
• Can be stored in loosely covered container, in fridge for 3 days.

*NOTE : the original recipe said to leave the ganache to sit for at least 6 hours. Perhaps if you use a pastry bag this is necessary. But with a spoon & knife I found 2 hours was sufficient to thicken the chocolate cream.

In love with a tart!

CHOCOLATE TART : a great chocolate recipe

Valentine’s Day – whether you are a fan or not, it is always a good excuse to make something sweet. And what could be better than chocolate.

This is an ideal desert as it is simple, can be made in advance, and is sinfully delicious. The slightly sweet pastry has a buttery tender crumb combined with the rich, unctuous chocolate ganache filling, that is not too sweet nor too dark – it is a match made in heaven.

Though I must confess I have stage fright when it comes to making pastry.  This requires summoning up the courage to attack the recipe (yes attack… I am going into battle) who will win is anyone’s guess. But have no fear, here you are safe. This recipe is tried, tested and true.

The pastry tart shells are made in advance after which no more baking is needed. The chocolate ganache is just heated cream poured over chopped chocolate, then spooned into the pastry shells and left to set. For the original recipe using orange zest see The Ulterior Epiqure

See link ‘Chocolate tart‘ below for recipe:

• 190 g all-purpose white flour
• 55 g icing (powdered) sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 113 g unsalted butter
• 1 egg yolk, beaten
• 1-2 tablespoon cold water (as required)

Method :

1. Combine flour, icing sugar, & salt. Mix well.
2. Cut butter into small cubes. The butter should be just slightly soft to the touch.
3. Using a mixer on medium/low speed, add butter cubes one by one to flour mixture.  This step can be done by hand.
4. Add egg yolk and 1 tablespoon cold water.
5. Mix on low speed until pastry dough comes together
6. If the pastry is still crumbly, add a little more water

Tart shell making:

1. Pre-heat the oven, 200°C (400°F) convection heat
2. The pastry dough does not need to be chilled.
3. Roll out between two sheets of baking paper until 0.4mm thick. You may need help holding the paper still while rolling the dough.
4. Line each tart tin with the pastry
5. Using a fork prick the bottoms to prevent pastry puffing (weights are not needed)
6. Bake for approx. 12 minutes. until golden
7. Let cool completely while making the chocolate filling.

Ganache – Chocolate Filling :

• 335 g dark chocolate (45% cacao)
• 300 mL liquid whipping (heavy) cream

1. Finely chop the chocolate*
2. Heat the cream till it just boils.
3. Immediately pour over chopped chocolate
4. Using a whisk, mix until smooth
5. Immediately pour into the prepared tart shells
6. Let cool at room temperature for 1 hour before serving. If not setting, place in fridge for 2 hours.
7. Can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days. Remove at least 30 minutes before serving to let the chocolate come to room temperature.
8. TIP : run your knife under HOT water before cutting the tart.

*the smaller the chocolate pieces the faster they will melt, if the pieces are too large the cream may not be hot enough after a few minutes to melt them all.

Oatmeal

OATMEAL

An unctuous, warm, stick to your ribs breakfast cereal, made from an easy recipe that can be thrown together in a matter of minutes and eaten with a vartiety of spices, fruits, nuts or just brown sugar.

With all this going for it, why did I avoid oatmeal like the plague when I was little…  I mean to the point that you couldn’t force the spoon down my throat! I think it came down to the texture, which with years and maturity…. I have come to like.

A few TIPS for making oatmeal :

• add the  salt at the end for a creamy texture
• the finer the oats the faster they cook
• heat your bowls
• serve with warm milk
• Scottish superstition - stir clockwise with your right hand to avoid evil

OATMEAL RECIPE : ERIKA ALLISTON, Sweet Pea Blog

For two servings:

• 250mL milk
• 250mL water
• 75g (2.5oz) rolled oats
• pinch of salt
• extra warm milk for serving
• brown sugar for serving

1. Put bowls in the oven
2. Bring milk and water to a boil in sauce pan
3. Add oats, bring to boil, then reduce to simmer
4. Simmer for 10-15 minutes
5. Serve in warm bowls, topped with warm milk and brown sugar

Baked Apples

Baked Apples seemed to be an appropriate welcome back, New Years resolution, apple desert recipe.  What better way to satisfy your sweet tooth while watching your waist line. Plus baked apples are a cinch to make… core, stuff, bake. That’s it. No fuss no muss.

Olivier’s parents have an apple orchard in France and this year they were overwhelmed with the yield. There were enough apples for the Russian army I tell you. So each week we receive a top up, which means I continuously have a bag of these golden red globes in my fridge. I would be complaining except that they are absolutely delicious and make wonderful apple sauce, pies, cakes, muffins not to mention baked apples.

RECIPE :  Erika Alliston – Sweet Pea Blog, BAKED APPLES

• 6 cooking apples
• 1 handful whole almonds
• 1 handful raisins
• a pinch ground cloves
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 15g melted unsalted butter

1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C (355°F) convection heat.
2. Coarsely chop the almonds, set aside
3. Melt the butter.
4. Add the chopped almonds, raisins, spices and brown sugar to the butter, stir well, set aside.
5. Prepare the apples; remove the core. Using a sharp knife draw a line around the middle of each apple (see picture). Stuff with the nut/spice mixture till it reaches the top of each apple.
6. Cook for 45 -60 minutes (depending on the size of your cooking apples), until apples are very tender when poked with a knife.
7. Serve immediately

Kip does not mess around when it comes to jam. The figs were washed, mashed, cooked, bottles and voilà – fig jam. And to be honest it should be that easy.  No muss no fuss. What I liked best is that the jam is not too sweet, he avoids the trap of saturating it with sugar, so that you can still taste the fruit. And just wait till your try this on a piece of hot bread, or with yogurt as a desert.

Here is another fig desert recipe to try!

RECIPE : ERIKA ALLISTON - Sweet Pea Blog

• 1.7kg whole ripe figs
• 900 gr white sugar
• juice of one lemon

Wash and dry the figs. Place in a large / deep saucepan, and mash (see image)

1. Add sugar
2. Slowly bring to the boil.
3. Cook for about 8-10 minutes (the temperature should reach 105°C if you want to be exact)
4. While waiting sterilise the jam jars & tops
5. Check the goute test
6. Add lemon juice cook for another minute.
7. Pour jam into hot jars almost to the very top, screw on the top and turn the jar so that it sits on its lid to cool.

Russian crêpes – I used to think that a crêpe was a crêpes was a crêpe. That was until Katya made me her Russian recipe. While the basic ingredients are the same – flour, eggs, milk and butter, the taste and texture are soooo much better! I am convinced that the secret lies in warming the milk and melting the butter, to which the dry ingredients are then added. The result is an unctuous wonderful batter that makes perfect crêpes.

The second key factors is to be one with your crêpe – out with the spatula and in with your fingers, just be careful not to burn them while slowly peeling back the crêpe to flip it onto the other side. This adds a whole new meaning to hands on cooking!

RECIPE - SWEET PEA Blog

Crêpe Batter Recipe:

• 125 grams white flour
• pinch of salt
• 250 ml milk
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 large eggs

1. Combine the flour and salt and set aside.
2. Heat the milk, remove from the stove and add the butter. Let it melt.
3. Beat in the eggs
4. Add the flour/salt mixture.
5. Ideally leave batter to rest overnight.

Crêpe Making

1. Heat a non-stick skillet/frying pan on medium heat
2. When hot, using a piece of paper towel run a little butter around the pan
3. Immediately, holding the pan in the hand you write with, pour some batter (approx 1 small ladle) into the center of the pan  and roll it around until it thinly covers the surface. This can take a little practice!
4. Let the crêpe cook until the upper surface become dry, and the lower surface against the pan becomes golden
5. Using your fingers  (or a spatula if you prefer) flip the crêpe, let it cook
6. Place on a plate and spread a little butter on the surface.

NOTE: the first crêpe normally does not turn out well, it is the crêpe that is used to season & prepare the pan.

‘Same Same, But Different’.….This was the slogan written on the shirts my brother brought back from South-East Asia for Olivier’s stag party. Odd that this phrase should pop into my head when cooking but it really does answer the question  ”What is the difference between clafouti and flognard???”

For the purists in this world clafoutis is a desert made with whole cherries and a sweet batter poured over the top.  A clafouti made using any other type of fruit ie) peaches is called a flognard or flaugnarde.

I often make this dish as it is a quick and easy summer desert. If you are pressed for time, don’t bother peeling the peaches or substitute them for red plums! This recipe calls for standard ingredients that you should have on hand, and if you are without cream just use extra milk. A dusting of powdered sugar (icing sugar) adds a nice touch for serving.

RECIPE : SWEET PEA Blog

Summer Peach & Fresh Ginger Flognard (Clarfoti)

• 4 yellow peaches**
• 100 ml milk
• 25 ml cream (you can substitute milk)
• 3 Eggs
• 60 grams (1/4 cup) white sugar
• 35 grams (1/4 cup) white all-purpose flour
• 2cm grated fresh ginger
• 3 tablespoons cold butter

1. Prepare the peaches. To easily remove the peach skin, fill two bowls; one with boiling water, one with ice cold water. Cut one peach in half and plunge it into the hot water for one minute then straight into the cold water for one minute. Gently peal back the skin. Cut each half into 4 pieces. Repeat the process with the three other peaches.
2. Prepare the batter. Beat the eggs, then add the milk, cream, ginger & sugar, beat again. Now add the flour and beat. The batter will be very liquid.
3. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C (400°F)
4. Grease a non stick tart pan with butter. Pour in the batter and arrange the peaches. Cut the cold butter into 1cm squares and evenly place around the pan. Sprinkle with a little extra white sugar.
5. Bake for 25-30 minutes.
6. Remove from the oven and present to your guests immediately while the desert has its greatest volume and air!

**NOTE: this desert can also be made with several other summer fruits such as plums or apricots (NO PEELING required!)

SHORTBREAD : I have always liked butter…. but in small quantities – feeling that too much of a good thing overwhelms the pleasures of the palate. Unfortunately, when I was a little girl my grandfather did not share these sentiments, and when asked to make us sandwiches for tea, he was prone to far more generous layers of butter, than bread & cucumber combined. There was then a mad dash to remove 90% of the golden spread & hide it in a napkin, before he returned to check that everything was ok!

All this being said, there is one area of baking where the less is more butter philosophy is brought into question – this being sablé (shortbread) cookie making. Butter is the defining building block, the foundation of this biscuit, without which you would be left with smiply flour & sugar. It’s quality is therefore of the utmost importance and once you have tasted these cookies, home made with fresh butter, you understand why the storebought variety always seems to have this slightly unpleasant aftertaste … it’s the butter.

It reminds me of the final scene in the movie ‘Mostly Martha’, where Martha (a famous Hamburg Chef) tastes the lemon tart her psychiatrist has prepared for her, using her recipe.

• some thing’s not right… she says
• how can that be? I followed your instructions to the letter?… he replies
• you heated the oven to exactly 210°?
• yes
• you didn’t over knead the pastry?
• no
• and the sugar, did you use Belgian sugar?
• Do you mean to say that you can tell what kind of sugar I used?
• No, of course not, but I can tell what kind you DIDN’T use!

This is my second dedication to the ‘Comme un Chef‘ cookbook – a delectable recipe for Sablés Viennois (Viennese Shortbread), which I can only think of improving by dipping one end in sinful dark chocolate that melts ever so slowly on your tongue. Otherwise they PERFECT.

While the recipe calls for a 9mm nozzle (douille), I used an 8m as that is what I had on hand. Though in future I would follow the original  instructions, as a larger nozzle makes the cookie formation far easier. You will also find that as you work with the piping bag and the dough warms, the cookies are easier to form.

RECIPE – SWEET PEABlog

• 200gr unsalted butter
• 75gr icing sugar
• 1 pinch of salt
• 1/2 vanilla bean pod
• 1 egg white
• 225gr white all-purpose flour

1. Let the butter naturally come to room temperature (Guide to Butter & Baking)
2. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C / 350°F convection heat
3. Beat the butter until it becomes white
4. Add sugar, salt, vanilla* and egg white
5. Beat for 30 seconds! This is important - do not over beat or the mixture will start to separate
6. Gently mix in the flour – chef’s tip was NOT to over mix, you just want the flour to be evenly combined.
7. Prepare the pasty bag and then add heaping spoon-fulls of dough into the bottom of the bag (avoiding air pockets), until all the dough is used.
8. Next, on a lined baking sheet, pipe out the cookies (see photo), leaving 2cm /1 inch in between each cookie
9. Bake for 12 minutes or until just golden.
10. Leave to cool on a cooling rack

*Take 1/2 a vanilla bean pod, slice it lengthwise & remove the inside by scrapping with a teaspoon